“Kesté” reads like “this is it” in Neapolitan dialect. The naming is the appropriate answer to a critical question: are you looking for a good Neapolitan-style pizza in the Greenwich Village? Kesté: this is it!
As usual, the Margherita is the first choice to prove the overall quality. In this case the experience is outstanding. The crust starts thick on the borders – crunchy outside and soft inside – and it becomes thinner in the center. The tomato sauce and the mozzarella do not release too much water: this allows for a thin crust that can hold all the ingredients without becoming soggy. The buffalo milk mozzarella is tender and loaded with flavor: it blends with the pizza and melts in your mouth.
If you want to try a different type of pizza, I recommend the Burrata, a special that may not be always available and that could be shared, considered that “burrata” is a soft cheese heavier than mozzarella.
Pizza by the slice did not benefit significantly from the pizza renaissance that took place in New York. The triangle-shaped thick slices are still dominant while the rectangular shaped slices – typical of the Italian tradition – are a rare find.
Pizza Roma is one of the few places where the slices are rectangular and the crust is true pizza rather than a bagel-bread hybrid.
The pizzaiolo makes pizzas with many different toppings: a true symphony of flavors where I recently enjoyed a memorable “crescendo”.
Start “adagio” with pizza bianca: a classic that will let you appreciate the quality of the dough. Accelerate to “andante” with the mosaic of zucchini and the hidden layer of melted cheese. When the margherita comes, it is time for an “allegro” of mozzarella and tomato sauce. And finally the “vivace” flavor of the porcini pizza, where the mushrooms are true porcini with their unmistakeable fatty texture and fully developed flavor. “Bravo, maestro!”.
This white focaccia speaks for itself. I fell almost useless in describing the thick and delicate slice, and the delicious olive oil that covers its crunchy surface. You just have to try it.
I would rather spend some time describing the cozy West Village location. A true bakery, with a courteous service, where they usually offer some of their focaccia and biscotti for tasting. Focaccia is my favorite order here, but you should also try the “cantucci”. These pastries, typical of Tuscany, give the name to the bakery and are prepared daily, with different ingredients, including figs, apricots, chocolate. I find difficult to resist focaccia and cantucci: usually I have to taste them immediately. If you share this compelling need, Il Cantuccio’s backyard offers two tables where you can sit down, relax and escape from the hectic pace of the city.
When you go to Artichoke Pizza, you should take the same precautions before going to the beach for a swim: wait at least four hours since your previous meal. The pizza is really good and you will not be able to stop until you are scratching the last drops of melted cheese from the bottom of the 18″ metal plate. In this case, your first choice should not be the classic “margherita”. A place that has “artichoke” and “pizza” in its name gives you a subtle hint about what you should order.
The crust is thick and with high borders: it is almost like a pan (tasting obviously better than a pan) where the artichokes are literally dipped in a melted mix of cheese. This pizza is a celebration of abundance and flavors. You will really enjoy it if you follow the “beach swim” rule stated above, and if you have a good lager beer to refresh your mouth.
The Chelsea location is recommended if you want to eat the pizza “on site”, which is always the preferred option.
“[…] Deviation from a dominant theory, opinion, or practice”. This is how the Merriam-Webster dictionary, defines the concept of “heresy”. This was also my initial thought as I saw the pizzas in Pulino’s brunch menu: heresy!
After ordering the pizza with salmon, potatoes and crème fraîche I was forced to eat my prejudice, together with the eight slices of this interesting interpretation of a traditional recipe.
In this case, pizza is not the main subject. Its crust is thin, properly baked and with a good flavor, resulting from a mix of different flours. However, the crust is only the canvas where thinly sliced salmon, potatoes and onions are masterfully combined. A tiny amount of crème fraîche keeps everything together.
This is my favorite choice at Pulino’s, where I suggest to go only if there are tables available outside or if the inside open space is not too crowded (and noisy).
You can call him either Michele, as per the Italian spelling, or Mikele, as per the name of his restaurant in Tribeca. Regardless of his name, this guy has always had a good touch for pizza.
Several years ago, you could find him at Luzzo’s, showing East Villagers what is the difference between a good pizza and the slices sold at St Marks Place.
Now, Michele (or Mikele) moved to a more gentrified area, changed the style of his pizza, and still delivers an amazing product. The pizza is square and served on a wood board. The mozzarella is delicious, melted to perfection and blended with the delicate tomato sauce. The pizza is medium-thick with a rich flavor, probably thanks to generous brush of oil applied before going into the oven.
Enjoy this pizza with a good selection of Italian beers on tap, and close with a shot of limoncello.
South Brooklyn in Manhattan is not an oxymoron. At least it is not an oxymoron since when this pizzeria appeared in the East Village a few years ago.
The place is small but it has all that is needed for a great pizza by the slice. There are two types of pizzas: round and rectangular. The latter – also called Sicilian-style – is the one you should try.
Since the baking takes longer, the rectangular pizza is available in more limited quantities. In case there was a customer like me immediately before you, you may need to wait for a new batch to come out of the oven. Rest assured that the quality of the pizza is worth the short wait.
The Sicilian pizza has a crunchy crust at the bottom and a tender layer of dough at the center. Tomato sauce all the other ingredients are really top-notch.
You can check the quality of the cheese by contemplating the windowed refrigerators located below the countertops place on one side and on front of the window. Additional sauces – spicy, garlic, and others – are available at the countertop tables.
The Sicilian-style pizza is also good for a home delivery. It can be re-heated quickly and without loss of quality in an electric oven (avoid microwave, for this delicate task).